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SOME ANTIQUITIES IN HARRAY PARISH

BY JOHN FRASER

KIRKWALL, 11th January, 1923.

Every Orkney parish contains some pre-historic antiquities and relics of early Christianity. Many archaeological discoveries of greater or less interest have been made in the county in recent years, but much in the way of research still remains to be done. To conserve, whenever possible, all ancient relics, to throw fresh light on where little is known, and to make further investigation, is the laudable duty of the Orkney Antiquarian Society; also, to collect as much as possible for exhibition in a county museum.

Map The parish to be dealt with in this paper is the best known to the writer and by no means the least interesting. The six-inch Ordnance Survey Sheets, Nos. 95 and 101, form a valuable reference, but much that should be included on them has been apparently overlooked and left out, both of pre-historic sites and place-names, and the spelling of many of the names are in many instances hardly correct. The antiquities to be referred to include standing stones, Picts’ houses, chapel sites, and Norse grave mounds.

STANDING STONES.

In comparison with Stenness, the parish is not rich in standing stones, possessing only one entire stone and two stumps, all single, there being no distinct traces left of any circles. The Standing Stone on Stoney Hill is a well-defined landmark about ten feet in height and is situated about forty yards east of the Harray to Stenness road. The stone points edgewise to the S.W., but not exactly towards any definite object in the neighbourhood of the Brodgar Circle. The late Sir Norman Lockyer, a famous astronomer, who made a study of the Stones of Stenness and Brodgar several years ago, gave as one of his sight lines the bearing of the Stoney Hill Stone from the centre of Brodgar Circle, the line pointing out the place of the rising of the Pleiades on the 6th May about 1230 B.C. In the near vicinity of this standing stone, on the west side of the road, are several large irregular-shaped stones that are worth notice, as some think they may be the beginning or ruins of a stone circle. In a yard at the back of the house of Feolquoy, also in the near vicinity, there existed till recently a standing stone of small dimensions. On the top of a natural hillock close to and on the west side of the Harray main road, near the farm of Appiehouse, is to be seen the remnant of what has probably been a large standing stone, what remains being about 4 feet in height and 4 feet in breadth. This stone stands due north and south, and the distance from the Stoney Hill Stone in a N.E. direction appears to be 2840 feet, exactly the same as the distance between the Watch Stone and the Barn Stone in Stenness parish. Another point of interest in connection with the relations of the Stoney Hill Stone and the Appiehouse Stone is that the line that joins the two is 42° E. of N., the same bearing that exists between the Barn Stone and the centre of Maeshowe, an alignment that is believed to have marked the position of sunrise at midsummer about 2000 B.C. Both the Stoney Hill Stone and the Appiehouse Stone are clearly indicated on Ordnance Sheet, No. 101. A standing stone probably once stood somewhere on the farm of How, in Binbister township as a large prostrate stone known as the “Fa’an or Faal Stane o’ How,” was broken up and removed in the course of farm improvements. The “how” from which the farm name is derived is a natural hillock and not a gathered mound. Over half a mile to the northwards of Carston, and in the middle of cultivated land on the Quoys of the Hill, are to be found the remains of what has once been a standing stone of some magnitude that is not shown on the Ordnance Sheet, No. 95, though it should have been. What remains of the stone is about 4 feet in breadth with a height of about 18 inches, and it points about S.S.W. Being at a considerable altitude above sea-level there is an extensive view from the spot and nearly all the Broch remains in the parish are visible. The situation of the stone is due north of Haewin (a probable Broch in Corston township), and an alignment from the site of Marykirk, Rusland, is 42° E. of N., the same as the Barn Stone–Maeshowe line before referred to. On the “brecks,” just outside the park dyke forming the north boundary of Nisthouse farm, about 700 yards west{31}wards from the Quoys of Hill Stone are to be seen a few boulder stones forming a rough circle about 15 yards in diameter that may be the remains of a small pre-historic stone circle.

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{33}{Map of Harray}

{34}

ARRANGEMENTS OF SITES.

The situations of the various chapels, standing stones and brochs have a very wonderful relation to one another, both in regard to distances apart and compass bearings, and herewith are given a few examples of this relationship. The distances and bearings are as near as can be calculated from the Ordnance 6-inch sheets:–

This distance is equal to one Nautical mile, and is one-sixtieth part of a degree of latitude.

The distance from Maeshowe to the Stoneyhill Stone being the same as a combination of the three Burrians is most noticeable. Similar distances betwixt broch and chapel sites in adjoining parishes are also to be found. For instance the distance between the chapel site in Wasdale Loch and the broch site near the Oyce bridge at Finstown appears to be the same as that of the first-mentioned group, viz., 6080 feet. Also the distances betwixt Marykirk, Rusland, the chapel site on the loch shore at Tenston, Sandwick, from thence to the chapel site at Kirkness, Sandwick, and from there back to Marykirk, Rusland, appears to be 6080 feet, and the combination an equilateral triangle. The equal lines joining Stenness Kirk, the Brodgar Circle and Marykirk, Grimeston, form another equilateral triangle.

Courses and distances given ashore may appear a bit out of place, but are excusable when the nautical mile is found to be a natural measure of distance. Harray being an inland parish, is the only locality in Orkney that has not witnessed a shipwreck. But there is the tradition of a “shipwreck” about 100 years ago. A country cart proceeding to Kirkwall with a consignment of flax, tallow and plaited straw, went over the Brig of Nettletar. The bridge was possibly very narrow and the driver inexperienced, but no doubt as to the sobriety of the latter arose as he was bound townwards. There was no public inquiry into the accident as no fatalities seem to have occurred. However, when the news reached Kirkwall, some wag sent the bellman round with the notification of “a ship laden with flax and tallow wrecked on the Brig of Nettletar!”

A few compass bearings (true north) showing the relationship of some of the sites are also of no little interest. The Quoys of the Hill Stone stands due north of Haewin, Corston, and Burrian, Corrigall, is also due north from Nettletar Broch.

No connecting lines between any of the sites are due E. and W. Two other true north lines may be given, Upperbrough Broch from the Barn Stone, Stenness, and Marykirk, Grimeston, from Stenness Kirk. All the foregoing arrangements could not possibly be accidental. The pre-historic inhabitants have left no written history but there is much to be learned from a study of what has been left to us of their erections. Certainly all of the old Picts have not been the ignorant savage heathens, that some would have us to believe. Amongst them have been at least a few who possessed some practical knowledge of the sciences of Astronomy, Geometry, and Masonry. To some extent they may have been Sun-worshippers, but like some other Eastern tribes who gave a formal sort of worship to the Sun, there were enlightened souls in the communities who knew that the great life and heat giving globe they daily saw was but the most potent manifestation of the Greater unknown—the Great Architect of the Universe. The ancient Orcadians did offer human sacrifices on the altar stones, but it is most pleasing to believe that the victims were criminals, worthy of the death sentence passed after perhaps as fair a trial as offenders get at the present day.

{22}{Map of Sandwick}

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ANTIQUITIES OF SANDWICK PARISH

BY JOHN FRASER

KIRKWALL, 13th December, 1923.

Map THE parish of Sandwick, though not possessing the wealth in antiquities of the adjoining parish of Stenness, is by no means destitute of relics of the prehistoric past. Three individuals have left us valuable records relating to the parish. The late Rev. Charles Clouston, a zealous antiquary as well as naturalist and meteorologist, was the writer of the last Statistical Account. The late Mr. W. G. T. Watt of Skaill did a lot of antiquarian research, and has left us both records and relics. Mr. Wm. Smith of Newark has also collected and published in the local Press many traditions and historical facts relative to the parish. Jo Ben refers very shortly to this parish—recording that it was exceedingly fertile, abounding in rabbits, the largest parish, and wholly cultivated. Apparently this obscure writer did not visit the place, and only heard of it. It is still fertile, the rabbits are still abundant, but in magnitude it does not now hold first place; and the whole area is not yet under cultivation. Almost every interesting spot in the parish is now easily accessible, as road-making has been most extensively carried out.

CIRCLES, STANDING STONES, AND CROMLECHS.

On the shore of the Loch of Stenness, just on the boundary line between the parishes of Sandwick and Stenness, may be found the remains of a circular erection, consisting of a slightly raised platform about 40ft. in diameter, surrounded by a shallow trench about 15ft. in width, and on the outside enclosed by a low ring embankment. This circle was examined and planned by Lieut. Thomas, R.N., in 1848, but that able antiquary expresses no opinion as to its purpose. Not being a burial mound, it must have been for either religious ceremony or judicial assembly.

In close proximity to the farmhouse of Bookan, and on the south side of the public road, is to be found the famous Ring of Bookan. This ring does not appear ever to have had standing stones as big as those of the circles of Brogar and Stenness. The diameter of the internal area of Bookan Ring is some 136 feet. the surface is irregular with ridges, and there are some earth-fast stones in no regular order. When Lieut. Thomas planned the Ring there were indications of five or six tangental circles about 6ft. in diameter, and he considered that many of the stones had been removed; that there was evidence of attempted cultivation; and that some kind of erection had once existed. The central platform is surrounded by a trench about 44ft. in width and nearly 6ft. in depth. Except on the north-east, the bank of the trench is still well defined, and there does not appear to have been any footways across the trench as at Brogar Circle.

On the south-east slope of Linga Fiold, on the south of the old township dyke, are two or three diminutive stones, about a foot above the surface, that are ancient.

On the north-west side of the same hill, near the farmhouse of Via, and about 250 yards to the south-east of the road, is the overthrown cromlech known as the Stones of Via. The Rev. Charles Clouston appears to have been the first to identify a cromlech in the mass of stones, from the exact resemblance to a Welsh cromlech figured in the Encyclopædia Britannica. The cromlech of Via originally stood near the centre of a circular enclosure about 90 yards in diameter; cultivation has all but obliterated the circle, but fortunately the stones remain much as they were when sketched by Lieut. Thomas some 75 years ago. On the south side of the circular enclosure was a small tumulus that was opened many years ago, but found to contain nothing but a heap of large stones. Thomas also gives his (or some other authority’s) opinion that Via or Ve signifies holy. The ruins of this ancient altar now consist of four square pillar stones, each about 3ft. in length, and the massive upper stone, nearly square, the dimensions being about 5ft. 10in. in length, 4ft. 9in. broad, and 1ft. thick. A full view of the setting sun can be obtained from the site, but the view of the sunrise is obstructed by the hill to the south-east. Two excellent photographs of this ancient monument have been taken by Mr. Kent, a photographer who, so far as outdoor studies are concerned—particularly in the antiquarian line—may, without fear of interdiction, call himself The Orkney Photographer. Here, it may not be out of place to mention that nearly every object and relic of archaeological interest that exists or has {24} been found in Orkney have at some time or other come in front of Mr. Kent’s camera, and prints of the same can be obtained at very moderate prices.

On the south slope of Vestrafiold Hill is to be seen an irregular-shaped enclosure, outlined and marked “Enclosure” on the Ordnance Sheet, doubtless very ancient, that has been of puzzling interest to antiquaries. The lower section of the enclosure has been encroached on by cultivation, and possibly some of the stones have been removed for building purposes. In form it has been egg-shaped, with the narrowest point towards the west, the longer diameter being about 300 yards and the shorter about 250. The enclosing stones are set on edge, and now are closer and larger on the north side than elsewhere—some being about 2ft. in height by 4ft. in breadth. In winter the enclosed ground is to some extent swampy, and a watercourse runs through it. There are traces of sub-divisions inside, and some very small tumuli. On the west side the line of enclosure runs up a rather steep slope. If intended for a fortified camp, the site has been ill-chosen, as the defenders could have been easily assailed and driven out by a Stone Age attacking party from the hill above. There is no evidence of ancient cultivation inside the enclosure. The position is well sheltered from north winds by the adjacent hill. Sheep “bulls” (folds) are still to be found in Shetland, generally built of turf and stones like the township dykes, and if not still existing, were, till very recent times, found in Orkney. Had the stones forming the enclosure been higher and closer together, the enclosure might have been of use as a sheep fold, but nothing lower than a 4ft. fence would have been sufficient to confine the agile old Orkney sheep; indeed a fence of this sort would have been unable to keep in the wiry little Orkney pigs that in olden times were kept all summer outside the township dykes. After much consideration, the most likely theory in regard to the enclosure is that it may have been used as a summer camping-place for the mound dwellers, or as a place of assembly for religious or legislative purposes.

On the hillside, about 100 yards eastward from the Enclosure, is an ancient quarry. The rock here is seen protruding from the hillside, and a few detached blocks, from 13ft. to 18ft. in length, are to be seen not far removed from the rock face. In size and appearance the blocks very much resemble the Standing Stones of Brogar. Undoubtedly the stones used in the construction of the Enclosure have come from this quarry, but though possible, it does not seem very probable that the Picts (or whatever race set up the Standing Stones) would have come such a long distance for the material. There were no roads at the period, no wheeled vehicles, only wooden rollers. In snow, however, the blocks could have been conveyed on sledges to the shore of Harray Loch—a distance of three miles—and then rafted to the lochshore at Stenness. On the east slope of the Hill of Cruaday are the ruins of what appears to have been a cromlech, known as the Haly Kirk. Some stones are still earth-fast and erect, the others—some large and some broken—somewhat scattered. Photographs of the Enclosure and the big recumbent stones have been taken by Mr. Kent, and a few years ago an excellent ground plan of the Enclosure was drawn by a Liverpool gentleman who was spending his summer holidays in Stromness. The Rev. Charles Clouston states that “a gentleman recollected one stone, now prostrate, supported by stones that are now perpendicular.” There is no indication whatever of a chapel site, and it seems rather strange how the place has been denominated “kirk,” unless some hermit or monk had a temporary residence under the heathen altar stone in early Christian times. From the site an unrestricted view would be had of the rising sun, but the view to the westward is obstructed by the hill. The structure locally is referred to as the Helya Kirk. About 150 yards westwards from the Haly Kirk, and higher up on the hill, is a small standing stone close by a small tumulus.

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DISTANCES BETWEEN SITES.

In a paper read before this society last session some figures were given showing the similarity in distances between many of the pre-historic remains in Harray parish. The same similarity in distances is to be found in Sandwick, of which the following are some examples:—

This is a natural distance, the nautical mile = 1/5400 of the distance from the Equator to the Pole, and not artificial like the statute mile of various countries.

This distance is equal to 1½ nautical miles.

From Kirkness Chapel to Tenston Chapel—5810 feet, the same as several relative distances in Harray and Stenness.

From Burrian, Wasbister, to Cleaton Kirk, Harray, 4360 feet, also the same as three relative distances in Harray.

Ness Chapel to Stones of Via, 35403450 in Harray paper feet, the same as two relative distances in Harray.

Several other relative distances to sites in Birsay, Harray, Stenness, and Stromness could also be given, but many figures are rather uninteresting and dull to follow, like statistical returns.

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ANTIQUITIES OF BIRSAY PARISH

BY JOHN FRASER

KIRKWALL, 23rd October, 1924.

{Map of Birsay}

Map BIRSAY, situated in the north-west corner of the Mainland, is the largest parish in the county, and the wide district within its bounds will be found to be of interest to the antiquarian, as well as to the naturalist and sportsman. Much has been written about Birsay—its men, places, things, and events; but there is still plenty of ground left for intelligent research. The Old Statistical Account, 1793, compiled by the Rev. George Low, throws much light on the condition of the inhabitants at that period. The late Henry Leask, of Boardhouse, knew the parish well, and has left many reliable records. Birsay Church History, by the Rev. Alex. Goodfellow, contains, in addition to the lives and doings of a long list of ministers, much historical and antiquarian matter. Mr. John Spence, of Overabist, in many short papers, has at various times both enlightened and gratified many readers, and it is to be hoped that more will follow.

STANDING STONES.

At Stanerandy, in the Barony, on a commanding position about due east and rather over a mile from the Palace, are to be found two standing stones. The stones are placed on an artificial mound, which has no appearance of having been dug into, and is very possibly sepulchral. The two stones are about 6 feet apart, in a line running north-west and south-east, and are of about the same dimensions—6 feet in height by 2 feet in average breadth—and have the appearance of being the head and foot stones of a grave. If they ever had an inscription, it must have been obliterated ages ago by time and the elements.

The Stone of Quoyboon, about 12 feet in height, by 3 feet in breadth at base, and about 18 inches in thickness, is situated in the South Side, in proximity to the public road, less than a quarter of a mile from Boardhouse Loch. There is a tradition that this standing stone each New Year’s morning took a trip to the loch, either to have a drink or to wash its feet, and always was back in its old stance before dawn. As nothing less than death was considered to be the inevitable penalty for any mortal that came near the stone’s path during its annual perambulations, the good simple people of bygone days kept well out of the supposed danger zone. Mr. Marwick’s paper in last year’s Proceedings gives a tradition of a standing stone at Faraclett, Rousay, which also descended to the adjoining loch for a drink of fresh water on New Year’s morn, and there are similar traditions relating to standing stones in other parts of the world. It is hard to imagine how such ridiculous beliefs could have originated. At the {22} festive New Year season, when humanity were imbibing strong waters, their inanimate fixed neighbours were compelled to be content with such poor cheer as plain water! No wonder, therefore, that the Quoyboon stone would have been both surly and dangerous. Two traditions relative to what two strangers suffered from being so foolhardy as to go to the stone at its dangerous period are too ridiculous to record here.

At Spurdagro, a short distance from the Marwick road, and on the edge of the Loons (an extent of very marshy land), is a small standing stone about 4 feet in height, 3 feet in breadth, and 1 foot in thickness. There is a recumbent stone near by that appears to have fallen in comparatively recent times.

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DISTANCES BETWEEN SITES.

As shown in previous papers on Harray and Sandwick Parishes, there is also a similarity in distances between chapels, brochs, and other ancient sites in this parish, a few of which are herewith given:—

This distance is 1½ nautical miles.

This distance is 1 nautical mile or one-sixtieth of a degree of latitude.

This distance is the same as it is between Bosquoy Broch and Haewin Broch in Harray Parish.

From Housby Chapel to the Castle at Kirkgoe, Hillside, is exactly 2 nautical miles, or 12,160 feet, and several other sites appear also to be this distance apart.