NISSAM BAGH, the scene of my favourite photograph of the holiday, is one of the smaller lakes and one where tents on the lakeside take the place of houseboats. It is about seven miles from Srinigar and on one occasion we rode to and from Nissam in two hours, including a break for a much needed pot of tea. The firm who printed the photograph offered to buy the negative but I preferred to retain it. The fact that an Indian was prepared to pay for it was sufficient to convince me that it has outstanding qualities which, however, I am not anxious to have exploited.